Domaine Obora

Angela Quiblier and Hugo Foizel have achieved what many dream of: they combine the technical know-how of Burgundy with the raw energy of Beaujolais. They met at the University of Dijon, forged at DRC, Leroy, Vogüé & Co. and will bottle their first vintage in 2021. Their plan is to let Gamay play the way the grape variety sounds when the vineyards are trusted and processes are carefully accompanied.

Their production sites are in Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas and a micro-parcel that belonged to natural wine godfather Jules Chauvet. Emotional Gamays are produced on almost 6 hectares, combining Burgundian craftsmanship with the tradition of Beaujolais. The result is elegant and precise Gamays that combine drinkability with depth.

Maceration Carbonique is often synonymous with sticky cherry liquor. At Obora, it is the supreme discipline of winemaking. Angela & Hugo sink whole, undamaged grapes under pressure, the intracellular fermentation ignites inside, the grape skin becomes friable - and suddenly sour cherries, violets and black tea pile up like an aromatic Jenga.

Every day adds tension, not an ounce of those coarse tannins that make half-baked Gamays seem dull. You get pinot-like associations with every sip.

The art of maceration carbonique lies in its length: you delay the process as much as possible, but the timing requires nerves of steel: a few days too early - too little depth, too much fruit. A few days too long and you have bacterial problems.

But if the balancing act is successful, the result is what Obora is now internationally celebrated for: silky tannins, beautiful fruit and a drinking tempo that immediately calls for the next sip. It gives Gamay majestic grandeur and at the same time makes it dance light as a feather over the tongue - a tightrope act that only the boldest can master effortlessly.

At Obora, terroir is not shown in the textbook, but in the glass: three cuvées, three characters. They captivate with a silky texture, a juicy core and a salty finish that stimulates the palate and shows that origin is not a dogma, but pure pleasure.